Bra Pattern, Ruby Full Band Bra, Bra-Makers Supply

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Bra Pattern, Ruby Full Band Bra pattern features an off-set vertical seamed cup for the roundest styling, and a shortened upper cup for maximum lift (push-up look).

Bra Pattern, Ruby Full Band Bra pattern can be made with or without underwires. The Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern has been specially designed to use with foam lining, which allows the use of virtually any stretch fabric over it as a cup cover. It can even be made without foam, using low-stretch fabrics or fabrics lined with Sheer Cup Lining.

Pattern Sizes:

This pattern uses a unique sizing system, called the Bottom Cup Depth Sizing Method (BCD).  All BCD sizes from 2.25 through 6.0 are included in this one pattern which offers the equivalent of over 100 ready-to-wear sizes. This includes the “in-between” sizes that ready-to-wear does not carry!

While wearing your best-fitting non-padded bra, be sure to hold the tape flat against your body and do not twist. Measure your BOTTOM CUP DEPTH, which is the measurement from the apex seam following the curve of the breast down to the seam at the wireline on the lower cup pattern piece – that is the Bottom Cup Depth. This number (in inches) is the pattern size you will use. For example, if you measure 5.25” BCD, you will trace the 5.25 size for all pieces.

Next, measure your RIB CAGE, pulling the tape snug against the skin but not tight. If you measure 34” on the rib cage, you will trace to the line marked 34 on the 5.25 band pattern piece.

Required Materials for Ruby:

  • 0.3 m of Cut & Sew Foam Lining (only if using foam lining)
  • 0.5 m of stretchy fabric to cover the cups (if using foam lining)
  • 0.5 m of stable fabric such as Duoplex or Sheer Cup Lining for the cups (if not using foam lining) and for the frame
  • 0.3 meters of Power Net for the back band
  • 0.7 m or less of 3/8″ finished width Fold-over Binding
  • 1.1 m or less of ½” Plush-Back/Band Elastic for bottom band
  • 1.2 meters of ⅜” Plush Back/Band Elastic for top band
  • 0.5 meters of 3/8″ wide strip of stabilizer for the neckline
  • 1.0 – 1.2 m of Strap Elastic 5/8″ wide for BCD sizes 3.0-4.5 and 3/4″ wide for sizes 4.75 to 6.0
  • 1.0-1.2 m of double face satin ribbon, 5/8″ or 3/4″ to use as a stabilizer under the front part of the strap elastic
  • 2 sliders and 4 rings width to match the strap elastic, either 5/8″ or 3/4″ wide
  • 1 meter of Underwire Casing
  • 1 Hook & Eye Set for the back (2 hooks high for sizes 3.0-4.5 and 3 hooks high for sizes 4.5-6.0)
  • 1 Bow Embellishment for the front (optional)
  • 1 set of Underwires according to the chart below

For convenience the Ruby Bra Findings Kit included all the finishing materials listed here except the fabric, foam, underwires and the pattern.


Bottom Cup Depth  Usually Fits North American Bra Sizes   Accepts Wire Sizes
3.0″ (7.5 cm) 36A, 34B, 32 C  WR-34, WL-32
3.25″ (8.1 cm) 38A, 36B, 34C WR-36, WL-34
3.5″ (8.8 cm) 40A, 38B, 36C, 32D  WR-38, WL-36
3.75″ (9.4 cm)  40B, 38C, 34D, 30E  WR-40, WL-38, WX-36
4.0″ (10 cm) 42B, 40C, 36D, 32E WR-42, WL-40, WX-38
4.25″ (10.6 cm) 44B, 42C, 38D, 34E, 30F WR-44, WL-42, WX-40
4.5″ (11.2 cm) 44C, 40D, 36E, 32F  WR-44, WL-42, WX-40
4.75″ (11.9 cm) 42D, 38E, 34F, 30G WR-46, WL-44, WX-42
5.0″ (12.5 cm)  44D, 40E, 36F, 32G WR-46, WL-44, WX-42
5.25″ (13.3 cm) 42E, 38F, 34G, 30H WR-48, WL-46, WX-44
5.5″ (13.8 cm) 44E, 40F, 36G, 32H WR-48, WL-46, WX-44
5.75″ (14.4 cm) 42F, 38G, 34H WR-50, WL-48, WX-46
6.0″ (15 cm)   44F, 40G, 36H  WR-50, WL-48, WX-46


WR – Regular Underwires

WL – Long Underwires

WX – Extra Long Underwires


For information on how to measure and what fabric to use for the Ruby Bra, see the following videos created by Mandy Bengeyfield of Fit2Sew: